After the last day we decided to take it a little more easy and also be more careful about where to stay. We didn't want to be that late at a lodge again!
So we packed our bags and marched on. No time for muscles complaining, a nice pancake in the morning and everythings fine... *cough*
So we packed our bags and marched on. No time for muscles complaining, a nice pancake in the morning and everythings fine... *cough*
Since the last day had been so hard, I was careful and tried not to strain myself that hard again. Luckily the day wasn't that bad as the last one. There weren't that many stairs and that made me happy.
We arrived in the last "bigger" "village" (village meaning a few lodges together - the lodges itself are shops, restaurants and so on, where you can buy food, get other things - but not get cash) called Deurali. From here it was another 400-500 meters up to the Machepuchere Base Cammp, which is the last place before the ABC (Annapurna Base Camp).
BUT before we arrived we had to walk of course. After Sinowa (from where you can see Chomrong a actual village with schools and other shops) the path led into a forest. Really neat, it was almost a rainforest. It went up and then a steep 1200 steps down. First it was a good thing, till we figured we had to walk all these stairs up on our way back down the mountain. A problem future Jakob had to handle - poor fellow...
We arrived in the last "bigger" "village" (village meaning a few lodges together - the lodges itself are shops, restaurants and so on, where you can buy food, get other things - but not get cash) called Deurali. From here it was another 400-500 meters up to the Machepuchere Base Cammp, which is the last place before the ABC (Annapurna Base Camp).
BUT before we arrived we had to walk of course. After Sinowa (from where you can see Chomrong a actual village with schools and other shops) the path led into a forest. Really neat, it was almost a rainforest. It went up and then a steep 1200 steps down. First it was a good thing, till we figured we had to walk all these stairs up on our way back down the mountain. A problem future Jakob had to handle - poor fellow...
At the bottom of the stairs we arrived in Bamboo, the place called that way because of all the bamboo around (duh!). Back it went up into bamboo forests and then later again "normal" forest.
So far we had observed a pattern in the weather. In the mornings it was always very clear, beautiful weather and warm as soon as the sun climbed over the mountains. As it got noon clouds appeared and piled up at the mountain tops untill they hid the sun. Luckily it didn't rain, simply cloudy. Unfortunately that meant it goes cold. Not so good, if you've been sweating alot. We had to be careful as to keep warm as soon as the sun was gone.
We arrived with sweatshirts and fleeces in Deurali. We played more DoKo and had nice Curry in the lodge. This one was full, so we were put into one of the rooms actually for porters (eventhough we had called ahead). The common room was full with other people staying there under big blankets. Up here the clothes didn't get dry anymore, unless the sun was shining directly on them. And because of a big ridge between Deurali and the east, the sun would only shine at about noon. If the clouds weren't faster...
The next day we were at more than 3000 meters above sea level and rising. The last hike to the MBC was great. Alot of nice views and just level walkways instead of going steeply up/ down all the time (it only went up and not tooo steep). At lunch time we arrived at the MBC and our host called the ABC lodges and told us, that everything was booked. So we stayed there at about 3800 meters in the lodge. We didn't move anymore after we did some laundry.
So our clothes were hanging outside, while we were inside playing cards and talking about what we could visit close to the MBC or do instead of just sitting. Then the clouds came, as expected. Though this time we were actually in the clouds, which was crazy. At one point we could hardly see our clothes hanging it outside. Not so good for them... but then again: They are already wet. How much wetter can they get?
After lunch and a few... well ok several. I admit it: alot of games it started raining... ok they could actually get wetter... cool. Literally.
I think our hosts told us about 5 times, that it's raining and if we want to take our clothes off, we just let them hang and hoped for the next morning and its promising sunlight.
During the afternoon 4 swedish girls arrived and stayed at the MBC aswell. Later at dinner we talked a little and they told us they were planning to leave the MBC at 4am and head to the ABC to see the sunrise up there. We hadn't planned that yet, but thought it was a good idea. We set our alarms to 4am (we weren't as ambitious) and got to bed early. Sitting around all day was kind of tiring. And cold, because we didn't move anymore, or at least not enough. And it was just generally cold. We asked about a heater (you could pay for it), but the hosts told us, that it takes some time to get warm and we'd have to pay for each person... Not sure how that would work (only the 4 of us wanted it but I guess the others sitting by the table would also get warmth? But the time thing was why we didn't do it. She told us it takes about 3 hours (and it was already dinner time).
So far we had observed a pattern in the weather. In the mornings it was always very clear, beautiful weather and warm as soon as the sun climbed over the mountains. As it got noon clouds appeared and piled up at the mountain tops untill they hid the sun. Luckily it didn't rain, simply cloudy. Unfortunately that meant it goes cold. Not so good, if you've been sweating alot. We had to be careful as to keep warm as soon as the sun was gone.
We arrived with sweatshirts and fleeces in Deurali. We played more DoKo and had nice Curry in the lodge. This one was full, so we were put into one of the rooms actually for porters (eventhough we had called ahead). The common room was full with other people staying there under big blankets. Up here the clothes didn't get dry anymore, unless the sun was shining directly on them. And because of a big ridge between Deurali and the east, the sun would only shine at about noon. If the clouds weren't faster...
The next day we were at more than 3000 meters above sea level and rising. The last hike to the MBC was great. Alot of nice views and just level walkways instead of going steeply up/ down all the time (it only went up and not tooo steep). At lunch time we arrived at the MBC and our host called the ABC lodges and told us, that everything was booked. So we stayed there at about 3800 meters in the lodge. We didn't move anymore after we did some laundry.
So our clothes were hanging outside, while we were inside playing cards and talking about what we could visit close to the MBC or do instead of just sitting. Then the clouds came, as expected. Though this time we were actually in the clouds, which was crazy. At one point we could hardly see our clothes hanging it outside. Not so good for them... but then again: They are already wet. How much wetter can they get?
After lunch and a few... well ok several. I admit it: alot of games it started raining... ok they could actually get wetter... cool. Literally.
I think our hosts told us about 5 times, that it's raining and if we want to take our clothes off, we just let them hang and hoped for the next morning and its promising sunlight.
During the afternoon 4 swedish girls arrived and stayed at the MBC aswell. Later at dinner we talked a little and they told us they were planning to leave the MBC at 4am and head to the ABC to see the sunrise up there. We hadn't planned that yet, but thought it was a good idea. We set our alarms to 4am (we weren't as ambitious) and got to bed early. Sitting around all day was kind of tiring. And cold, because we didn't move anymore, or at least not enough. And it was just generally cold. We asked about a heater (you could pay for it), but the hosts told us, that it takes some time to get warm and we'd have to pay for each person... Not sure how that would work (only the 4 of us wanted it but I guess the others sitting by the table would also get warmth? But the time thing was why we didn't do it. She told us it takes about 3 hours (and it was already dinner time).
After a short sleep we left at about 4:30 am towards the ABC. Thermal pants and fleece jackets on, headlights strapped and ready to go? Alright! Time to head out.
It was dark, as expected, our clothes had started freezing (oops) but we still hoped for a powerful sun in the morning. Having light definately helped (thanks mom!) and we made it slowly higher and higher. Flory and Emu stopped occasionally to try and take some fotos, but only as the sun was out a little were the cameras able to take (good) fotos (I hope). Gerrit and me walked a little around to stay warm. It was so cold, that the cameras didn't work properly... Emus smartphone appeared to think it was as cold as 1970, so reset to that year (however that was possible)... He searched for his fotos in vein a long time untill he realised his phone said it was the 1.1. and when he had a look it said 1970 (or something like that) and he found his fotos at the bottom of his folder.
It was dark, as expected, our clothes had started freezing (oops) but we still hoped for a powerful sun in the morning. Having light definately helped (thanks mom!) and we made it slowly higher and higher. Flory and Emu stopped occasionally to try and take some fotos, but only as the sun was out a little were the cameras able to take (good) fotos (I hope). Gerrit and me walked a little around to stay warm. It was so cold, that the cameras didn't work properly... Emus smartphone appeared to think it was as cold as 1970, so reset to that year (however that was possible)... He searched for his fotos in vein a long time untill he realised his phone said it was the 1.1. and when he had a look it said 1970 (or something like that) and he found his fotos at the bottom of his folder.
The time went on as we climbed up, we saw the lights of the ABC and some other smaller lights walking towards the lodges (maybe the swedes?) and the sky was turning more blue, chasing the stars out of sight.
Before that the stars in the sky were breathtaking. Beautiful little dots and lights in the sky. Everywhere, millions of stars visible and greeting all hikers on the trek in the night. Now fleeing the brightness of the sun, slowing rising.
Really cool was the view on the Annapurna South while it still was dark. The snow reflected every light and therefore created a white peak standing out in the otherwise black night (though faintly at first). Later with more light it turned brighter and brighter, untill the sun actually hit the mountain and the snow reflected it (though that was much later).
First rays hit the mountain (well not direct rays I guess, it was red/orange and not really pure sunlight... is that a thing?) and made it look even more beautiful with the rest of the valley and mountains looking darkgrey and left in shadows. Only much later, when we arrived at the lodges, did the sun actually light up the peaks. Then it rose up behind the Machupuchere creating a cool shadow on the floor and then the sun had finally shown itself personally, lighting up the valley and lodges (hopefully drying our clothes!!!).
Before that the stars in the sky were breathtaking. Beautiful little dots and lights in the sky. Everywhere, millions of stars visible and greeting all hikers on the trek in the night. Now fleeing the brightness of the sun, slowing rising.
Really cool was the view on the Annapurna South while it still was dark. The snow reflected every light and therefore created a white peak standing out in the otherwise black night (though faintly at first). Later with more light it turned brighter and brighter, untill the sun actually hit the mountain and the snow reflected it (though that was much later).
First rays hit the mountain (well not direct rays I guess, it was red/orange and not really pure sunlight... is that a thing?) and made it look even more beautiful with the rest of the valley and mountains looking darkgrey and left in shadows. Only much later, when we arrived at the lodges, did the sun actually light up the peaks. Then it rose up behind the Machupuchere creating a cool shadow on the floor and then the sun had finally shown itself personally, lighting up the valley and lodges (hopefully drying our clothes!!!).
Many flags at the entrance to the ABC! Many people put stickers on the signs aswell =)
Annapurna South after the sun rose over the first mountain peaks
Annapurna I - doesn't really look like much, but is the highest one of the mountain range!
Up at the ABC many people were up and taking pictures. A group of Nepali celebrated arriving at the Basecamp aswell as many others who had maybe arrived the day before (they had guides to book ahead or did that themselves). Many prayer flags were hung at the top of a "valley" created by a glacier, which - now after summer - was very small and did not take up that space. It must be crazy cool to see it in winter, just huge ice masses. The glacier of course still existed and was hanging out at the mountain around Annapurna I (the highest of the Annapurnas). Though it is the highest Annapurna South looked more impressive and like a "proper" peak. But the Annapurna I is actually the harder one to climb.
After many fotos (well mainly Emu and Flory), talking to a few people we went down to one of the lodges for breakfast. Nice coco and Gurungbread (an amazing tasting bread we discovered pretty late, it almost tasted like "schmalzkuchen" a sweet bread you get one christmas markets in Germany!) we headed one more time to the foto spot. We went up a few more meters and spent there another hour untill we decided we had enough fotos and started our descend. By now the sun was out completely and was hopefully drying our clothes down at the MBC!
After many fotos (well mainly Emu and Flory), talking to a few people we went down to one of the lodges for breakfast. Nice coco and Gurungbread (an amazing tasting bread we discovered pretty late, it almost tasted like "schmalzkuchen" a sweet bread you get one christmas markets in Germany!) we headed one more time to the foto spot. We went up a few more meters and spent there another hour untill we decided we had enough fotos and started our descend. By now the sun was out completely and was hopefully drying our clothes down at the MBC!
My companions for the hike to the Base Camp: My small backpack and a walking stick (I had two most of the time of course)
And for this occasion I hung the prayer flags around my bag for the highest part of our trek!
Base Camp selfie! Of course with no nice background,
'cos you only want to see my beard
and me looking pretty weird...
In the upper left corner you can almost see the glacier and the foreground shows where it goes to in winter!
The foto point of the base camp and here are many more flags flying in the wind, wishing everyone the best of luck!
We walked down and spotted some people we had met the day before or other parts of our trips. And a dog. Wait what?! We had noticed him the first time up at the ABC. No wait, it was actually the same dog we had seen at the MBC! We thought he belonged to someone, but now he was walking down with no one, or maybe just independently and waiting down for his owner, I don't know. Anyway he was kind of ruthless. The dog just ran past us, not caring if it was a very narrow path or between two people and shoving them a little to the side. But it was kind of cute so no one really complained. It was fun to see the dog just walking up and down the mountain. We wondered if he belonged to a lodge and just walked up to the ABC in the morning in hopes of some treats and then coming back for lunch.
At about 10 am we arrived back at our lodge in the MBC and the clothes were still drying... we had to tend to our socks, which had started freezing, but otherwise we were hopeful it would actually work! We stayed there drinking tea and packing untill it got cloudy again. Then we took everything (if it was dry or not) and started our final descent down the mountains. We saw the Machupuchere one last time, then it was covered by clouds aswell...
Annapurna South with the Camp infront with full sunshine
The sun over the Machupuchere
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